Category: London

Back to Bari

When I first arrived in Bari early in January 2020, it didn’t feel conceivable that I’d still be here almost two years later and in a relatively settled state.  However, a series of events, namely Covid and a re-evaluation of certain life priorities, has meant that Bari has begun to feel strangely like home. 

Some of the most familiar sights from around Bari; September 2021.

I finished teaching in the final week of July and immediately embarked on a five day-long road trip back to Britain via Northern Puglia, Emilia-Romagna, Switzerland, the Rhine-Neckar region of Germany and the Hook of Holland (Covid restrictions at the time meant that driving through France was a no-go).  I spent nearly a month back in the UK in August and despite having weather that was mediocre at best, had a great time seeing old friends and family after 18 months of enforced estrangement.  

There were two festivals (Soul II Soul headlining South Facing Festival in Crystal Palace Park and Green Man in Crickhowell, South Wales), a boozy Mexico-inspired South London barbeque courtesy of my mate Mark, a Newbury reunion of ‘The Dream Team’ (a somewhat ironic moniker that my friends Anna, Jen, Matt and I created for ourselves, aged 17), a sojourn to Southend-on-Sea with Virginia to meet Rufus, Emily and Matt’s one year-old baby, an evening putting the world to rights at The Bowlers Arms with my old bassist and all-round-good-bloke Roger, a trip to a Thai restaurant in Surbiton with Chris, Jenny and Scott and lots of other catch-ups with old friends with whom it has been far too long.

It was also a chance to spend some quality time with my parents at the house I lived in from the age of 11 until 18 in Highclere on the Berkshire / Hampshire border and to see my sister, brother-in-law and nephews at their home in Buckinghamshire.  My sister Rachel and her family had a trip to Italy planned for Spring 2020 but this was obviously shelved due to the pandemic.  Never did I imagine upon leaving the UK that it would be nearly two years before we saw each other in-person again.  It was particularly fun to meet her new dog Sandy though; a very cute, lively and mischievous golden Labrador puppy with a penchant for stealing running shoes and food from plates on the table…

Fun times back in the UK, August 2021.

My return journey was a more leisurely trip through Northern France (restrictions had been lifted by this point), deliberately avoiding Switzerland (my unplanned overnight stop in Lucerne on the outbound trip set me back a small fortune) and travelling through Germany, Lichtenstein and Austria instead.  It was more eventful too; I went to an electro-pop night at the curiously-named Le Bistrot de St So in Lille (it is definitely not a bistro), had an incident with an incompetent hotel in Saarbrücken, Germany locking me out at 3am, left my favourite leather jacket behind in a wardrobe in Baden-Württemberg (it has thankfully now been posted back to me in Bari) and even made friends with the friendly owners of a newly-opened Celtic medieval re-enactment bar Taverna Le Madragola in Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna (highly recommended to anyone visiting Ferrara looking for something unusual).  It turns out that the region has Celtic roots and that there’s even a Welsh-speaking town nearby called Baldi. 

Parts of the drive were really stunning though and had an almost meditative-like quality; particularly the remote mountains of Lichtenstein, the area surrounding Innsbruck in Austria and the Alpine countryside near Salem and Friedrichshafen in South Germany.  After travelling through Trentino (I stopped overnight in the pretty town of Lagundo), Emilia-Romagna and final stops in Vasto, Abruzzo and Mattinata in the Gargano National Park, I arrived back in Bari in early September.

The highlights of the return journey back to Bari; Highclere > Lille > Saarbrücken > Salem > Lagundo > Ferrara > Vasto > Mattinata.

At first, it was a little strange to be back. The novelty has well and truly worn off and the city now feels very familiar. After the excitement and merry-go-round of constant socialising whilst being back in Britain, it’s a somewhat grounding experience to be back in a country where you still have limited ability with the native language and where the network of people you know is far smaller.  However, I decided that the solution was to re-immerse myself in Italian culture…

Within a few days of being back in Puglia, I had been to open-air concerts by Niccolò Fabi in Molfetta and Max Gazzè in Mola di Bari; both established and much-loved names from the canon of Italian popular music over the past 25 years.  Along with Daniele Silvestri, they also perform as the Fabi-Silvestri-Gazzè group and whilst virtually unknown in the UK, are national treasures in Italy.  Fabi’s music is more delicate and sincere, whilst Gazzè’s live show was more muscular and leant a lot on the earnestness of Springsteen, as well as some more electronic influences.  

Niccolò Fabi live in Molfetta and Max Gazzè live in Mola di Bari. September 3rd and 5th 2021.

I’ve made it a mission this year to discover more Italian music, in particular those from the underground and alternative spectrum such as Napoli’s Nu Guinea, Bari hardcore band Strebla, local funk / soul artist Walter Celi and electronic producer Indian Wells from San Donato di Ninea in remote Calabria.  I managed to squeeze my trusty cream Fender Strat and a small solid-state modelling amp into my car on the return journey so am hoping to find some likeminded Pugliese musicians to collaborate with this time around.  Bari has some great venues – of all sizes – and a lot of potential for touring. 

I’ve also already managed to get down to the Stadio San Nicola to see SSC Bari play – crazily, nearly two years after my first visit.  In the first game I saw, the team convincingly beat Monterosi Tuscia 4-0 and at the time of writing, are currently sitting top of the table, with a gradual buzz starting to build in the city about the team’s chances.  Perhaps this is the season for that re-promotion to Serie B after all?  Is a return to the David Platt, Paul Rideout and Gordon Cowans-era glory days just around the corner?

SSC Bari 4 – Monterosi Tuscia 0. 5th September 2021.

There have also been a few mini-road trips prior to the start of term; namely to Laureto near Fasano in Puglia, the small town of Ceccano in Lazio (luckily, the town’s annual music festival was taking place the same weekend we visited) and a week-long tour around Calabria, the “toe” of Italy’s boot.  Beginning with a fleeting overnight visit to the Medimex music conference in one of my favourite Italian cities Taranto, I then visited Crotone, Le Castella, Santa Severina, Le Cannella, Pizzo, Tropea, Belvedere Marittimo (the last place I visited just days before the start of the first lockdown in March 2020) and San Donato di Ninea.  With the balmy weather now starting to turn colder, it made sense to enjoy the south whilst it was still hot and to reserve the city breaks for autumn and winter instead (Firenze, Perugia, Roma and Siena, I’ll be coming for you).  

A snapshot of my travels, post-arrival in Bari. In no particular order; Laureto, Lazio, Taranto, the Calabria road trip.

With some new colleagues arriving at my school, there have already been some lively (and late) nights out in Bari, often ending up at the downtown drinking institution Piccolo Bar.  Piccolo’s has been a staple of Bari nightlife for many decades and it seems to close when it wants; 6am or 7am?  No problem.  However, whilst nights out with other teachers are good fun, as with last year, I remain determined to mix with more locals and continue making Italian friends, acquaintances and connections.  My Italian has definitely improved but I think that this year demands for a day per week set aside to learning the language.  The Duolingo app has been very engaging and great for vocabulary but it’s time to up my game…

It was whilst sat on a beach in Tropea a couple of weeks ago that I decided to write down some aims, intentions, goals and themes for the year ahead (you can tell I spent 11 years working in PR).  The ‘to-do list’ section is below:

  • 1.)  Write book number one (whilst I enjoy writing this blog, it technically is never-ending.  A book feels like something more complete – I have some ideas)
  • 2.)  Increase Italian competence (one day a week dedicated to practising?)
  • 3.)  Continue with blog (what you are reading right now)
  • 4.)  Begin business plan (I could be onto something here or I could be dreaming in Cloud Cuckoo Land, let’s see…)
  • 5.)  Explore musical opportunities in Bari and practise guitar 3-4 times a week (for the first time since the age of 16, I’m not playing regularly with other musicians in a band.  However, I do now have two guitars in my flat; an early 1960s Harmony Sovereign acoustic and a Fender Relic Strat, if you happen to be of the guitar geek persuasion).

As you can see, I’m hoping to do rather a lot over the next coming months.  As a result, the Set Your Own Scene blog will become more of an occasional creative outlet for me than something to be updated every week.  Some months might see me posting several articles but then others might be quieter, depending on what else I’m up to.  

Please keep reading though and as always you can keep in touch with me on Instagram @clivedrew and Twitter @CliveD.  

The Festival for the People

Southbank Centre and the Festival of Britain’s legacy

Unlike the nationalistic overtones of the impending Festival of Brexit, the 1951 Festival of Britain championed creativity, design, innovation and science and gave a young generation of architects, planners and creatives a huge platform.  It was incredibly ahead of its time.

By all accounts, post-World War II Britain in the 1940s and early 1950s was a grim, grey and colourless place.  Six years of bombing, air raids and then subsequent debt and austerity left much of the country feeling depressed and disillusioned and rationing remained in place long after the end of war including the much-dreaded state-produced ‘National Loaf’ of bread which was fortified with vitamins and calcium in an attempt to make up for other nutritional deficiencies in the typical daily diet (rationing finally came to an end in 1954 and the loaf was abolished two years later).

Whilst unthinkable today, London was rundown, dirty and scarred with bombsites and many of its buildings were blackened as a result of air pollution.  The now-upmarket North London suburb of Hampstead was at the time, an affordable enclave for artists, writers and creative types and the areas just south of the River Thames around Waterloo and London Bridge were industrial wastelands. 

The initial idea for the Festival of Britain was thought up by The Royal Society of Arts in 1943 who were keen to hold an event to commemorate the centenary of The Great Exhibition of 1851 (held at The Crystal Palace – then situated in Hyde Park) and to raise national morale after the trauma of the war.  The Labour government’s Herbert Morrison soon took charge of the idea and decided that the core focus of the festival should the arts, architecture, science, technology and industrial design.  It was also agreed that there should be no politics at the festival – either explicit or implied.  As a result, Labour-led initiatives such as universal health care and housing for the working class were excluded.  Morrison would go onto serve in Clement Atlee’s government as Foreign Secretary and later become the Leader of the Opposition.  He was raised in South London and was an alumnus of Stockwell Primary School; he was in good cultural company as some 50 years later a certain David Jones (or in future, ‘Bowie’) would also attend the same alma mater. 

There was significant opposition to the idea from the political right and Winston Churchill, in particular hated the idea, labelling it “a state-sponsored jamboree” and “three-dimensional socialist propaganda”.  However, Morrison and his team eventually got the project over the line and the experienced and dynamic left-leaning newspaper editor Gerald Barry was appointed as Festival Director.  He described the Festival of Britain as “a tonic for the nation” and the festival billed itself (albeit, more long-windedly) as “one united act of national reassessment, and one corporate reaffirmation of faith in the nation’s future”.

Postcards of the South Bank festival site showing the Dome of Discovery, Skylon and Royal Festival Hall.

The Festival of Britain involved events and displays taking place all over the country during 1951 and it is thought that over half of Britain’s then-population of 49 million took part in some way.  The centrepiece of the festival was the regeneration of the South Bank site near Waterloo in Central London.  The area was run-down and predominantly industrial and the festival would see the creation of a brand new public space and a walkway along the River Thames, showcasing the principles of international modernist design – a rarity in London at the time.  South Bank was to stage three large, multi-facetted ‘core’ exhibitions, ‘The Land’, ‘The People’ and ‘The Dome of Discovery’.  The latter was a huge aluminium dome with a diameter of 111 metres designed by the architect Ralph Tubbs and designed to house an exhibition championing British exploration and innovation.  It soon became an iconic London structure and a nationwide symbol of the festival.  The Dome of Discovery was almost certainly a significant influence on the Millennium Dome, now The O2 Arena

Another radical new landmark created especially for the festival was Skylon; a futuristic-looking steel tensegrity tower over 90 metres tall that appeared to ‘float’ above the ground.  Situated next to the Dome of Discovery on the stretch of the Thames between Hungerford Bridge and Westminster Bridge, it also quickly became synonymous with the festival and was extremely popular with the public, given the interest in space exploration in the early 1950s.  Having said that, a common jibe at the time was that “(Skylon) had no visible means of support – just like the British economy”. 

Clockwise (from left): 1.) An aerial view of the main South Bank festival site, 1951. 2-3.) Skylon and a view of the site from across the River Thames. 4.) Festival signposts. 5.) A close-up of the Skylon structure. 6-7.) Inside the Dome of Discovery and the dome at night.

Atlee’s Labour party would unexpectedly lose the autumn 1951 snap general election and Winston Churchill’s new Conservative government begin immediately tearing down the majority of the Festival of Britain’s structures, which they saw as symbols of socialism (Churchill’s first official act as Prime Minister was to clear the South Bank site).  These included the iconic Dome of Discovery and Skylon both of which were sold as scrap to a metal dealer in Canning Town.

However, perhaps the two most successful ventures of the Festival of Britain remain to this day; the Lansbury Estate in Poplar, East London and Royal Festival Hall on South Bank.  The ‘Architecture’ element championed what became known as ‘Festival Style’, incorporating international modernism with traditional English quaintness and the Lansbury Estate in East London which had been badly damaged by bombing was identified as a site for regeneration.  The philosophy behind the design of the new estate was that it should be low-density and consist of several ‘neighbourhoods’ – with each one including the various amenities that an area needs to thrive, such as pedestrianised shopping areas, covered markets, churches, old people’s homes and pubs and restaurants, linked by walkways. The Lansbury Estate today, now stands in the shadow of Canary Wharf but it remains very popular with residents.

Royal Festival Hall was the first in a new generation of post-war public concert halls in London and was one of the first venues to be acoustically designed using scientific principles.  The project was led by London County Council’s chief architect (and leading proponent of modernism) Robert Matthew who assembled a team of talented young specialists including architects Leslie MartinEdwin Williams and Peter Moro, as well as furniture designer Robin Day, his wife textile expert Lucienne Day and acoustic consultant Hope Bagenal. The vision of the hall and its numerous wide, open foyers was for it to “become a space for all” and not to include segregated bars and lobbies for different ticket holders, as was the case with most of the concert halls of the previous century. The auditorium itself was radical too; designed democratically so that it had “no bad seats”, cantilevered boxes resembling “open drawers” and unusually, it was located on the building’s upper floors – an early 1948 sketch described it as “the egg in a box”.  

Royal Festival Hall in the 1950s and the iconic publicity poster for the festival.

Built predominantly from reinforced concrete (particularly in vogue with modernist architects at the time), this was combined with more luxurious materials such as polished wood and metal, white limestone and glass.  The generous use of glass was intended to connect the building to the communal terrace spaces outside and its white limestone exterior was chosen to deliberately contrast with the then-blackened city surrounding it.  There were some radical touches with the interior furnishing too; the now-famous ‘net and ball carpet’ that runs through the foyers and floating staircase was created by Peter Moro and Leslie Martin – partly inspired by oscilloscope sound waves (and also an apple that was on Martin’s desk).  The hall’s foyers’ numerous plywood chairs have also achieved cult-like status and most of the ones used today are Arne Jacobsen Series 7 Chairs, designed in 1955.  

1.) Inside Royal Festival Hall and its famous armchairs and ‘net and ball’ carpet. 2.) The festival’s core design team; Robert Matthew, Leslie Martin, Peter Moro and Edwin Williams.

The designers’ dream for Royal Festival Hall was for it to become ‘The People’s Palace’.  A place where everyone could go to socialise, have meetings or just relax and enjoy the views across the Thames that it offers – regardless of whether they were going to a concert there or not.  I first encountered Royal Festival Hall in 2001.  I was doing the first of two work placements at NME (New Musical Express) – then based at IPC Media’s King’s Reach Tower, nearby on Stamford Street, Waterloo.  My Dad and I had wandered there whilst exploring the area along South Bank the weekend before and stumbled upon a free piano recital taking place in its light and airy downstairs lobby.  During the week, it seemed like the ideal place to go and grab a quick sandwich during my lunch break at NME.  At first it felt almost as if I had snuck into the sumptuous, open-plan foyer by mistake – I was shocked that anyone could just walk in off the street and enjoy the space.

During my London years, the RFH foyers and terraces played host to countless meetings with friends, work contacts, visiting Americans and I remember one particularly lively evening early in my PR career entertaining a group of thirsty technology journalists there.  I have seen the likes of Annie Nightingale DJ and Tuto Puone perform in the open-plan Clore Ballroom on the lower level and John Cooper Clarke, Johnny Marr & Nile Rodgers, Stewart Lee, the Manics, Mogwai and The Motown Orchestra all play in the 2,700-capacity ‘egg box’ auditorium upstairs.  The auditorium also hosts the annual Meltdown Festival (past curators have included David Bowie, Lee Scratch Perry, Patti Smith and Scott Walker), as well as being the location of Love and Arthur Lee’s celebratory comeback gigs in 2003 after his release from prison in California.  This show would later be officially released as the Forever Changes Concert.

Royal Festival Hall’s airy foyers and terraces and inside its auditorium.

Things weren’t always so culturally lofty at the hall though.  A group of us, including my mate Scott, went to see a line-up of alternative comedians from the 1980s (curated by Stewart Lee) there in May 2011 and during the interval a play fight broke out that may have culminated in a “bundle” (or “pile-on” if you happen to be American).  As we all returned to our feet, the first person we saw was an unimpressed Frank Skinner looking towards us disdainfully.  On another occasion five years ago, my Welsh pal Mark and I had been on the anti-Brexit protest march around Westminster.  Post-march we decided to go and have a couple of pints at the Duke of Sussex, just off Lower Marsh.  After the pub, we popped into Royal Festival Hall and saw that that it was staging some sort of meditation-inspired exhibition and that the floor of the lobby had been completely covered in fake grass and bean bags.  A little sleepy from the march and the American Pale Ale, we temporarily lay down on the fake grass and were both fast asleep in minutes.  We woke up a little disorientated half an hour later.  Probably not the sort of response the exhibition was looking for, but then again RFH is “a space for all”

Royal Festival Hall is the one surviving structure of the original 1951 Festival of Britain site.  In the decades following the festival, more cultural and artistic venues were built in the area including the BFI SouthbankHayward GalleryThe National TheatrePurcell Room and Queen Elizabeth Hall.  The area became renowned for the arts and creativity and the complex is now known as the Southbank Centre.  Whilst, it was an arguable travesty that the pioneering Dome of Discovery and Skylon were demolished so quickly after the original festival, the site the dome occupied is now home to Jubilee Gardens and the London Eye and this stretch of the river is now one of the most-visited by tourists in the whole of London.  In 2007, Royal Festival Hall paid tribute to the original Skylon by naming its new restaurant in its honour.  Since 1981 it has also been given Grade I-protected status – the first post-war building to be recognised in this way.

Royal Festival Hall today.

Perhaps the most important legacy of the festival though, is that it acted as a springboard in the careers of so many young architects, curators, designers, producers and writers who were involved in the creation of its numerous areas and exhibitions.  The start-up incubator of its day, perhaps.  The key architects involved in the launch of the festival all went onto have long and successful careers, designers such as Lucienne and Robin Day, Abram Games and Ernest Race became synonymous with mid-century Festival Style and a young Patience Gray got her first ‘break’ contributing to the displays inside ‘The Country Pavilion’ with the designer FHK Henrion.  The Baku-born designer Sir Misha Black worked alongside Gray and Henrion, masterminded the ‘Upstream’ area and co-designed the Dome of Discovery.  His daughter Julia said after Black’s death in 1977; “as for Henrion and my father, the Festival of Britain really made their careers”. 

In many ways, the festival was a signpost for the 1960s – a decade of radical change in Britain, and the rest of the world.  During the warmer evenings, outdoor dancing under moonlight was encouraged in the open space behind Royal Festival Hall (in Julian Hendy’s 2011 BBC documentary an elderly lady called Jean recalls how she met her future husband there) and there was even a dedicated ‘Dance Pavilion’ downstream at the Battersea Pleasure Gardens (maybe the Silver Hayes area at Glastonbury could consider rebranding for 2022?).  The dancing was accompanied by live music and saw some of the first-ever performances by Trinidadian steel pan groups in the UK. The Trinidad All Steel Percussion Orchestra (TASPO) was invited to perform at the festival in summer 1951 and this would have been the first time the British public would have been exposed to this kind of music.  It proved to be extremely popular and many of the musicians in the orchestra would stay in Britain long after the festival to pursue their love of music and to help increase knowledge about steel pans.  TASPO member and calypso pioneer Sterling Betancourt MBE settled in London and would co-found the Notting Hill Children Street Festival in 1964.  This would later evolve into the Notting Hill Carnival – Europe’s largest street event with an average annual attendance of two million.

The proposed £120 million Festival of Brexit planned for 2022 would do well to learn from the pioneering and futuristic festival that took place on South Bank some 71 years earlier.

Julien Hendy’s 2011 documentary ‘Festival of Britain: A Brave New World’, featuring contributions from Roger Allam and Dominic Sandbrook is available to watch on YouTube below.

The return of Jamboree

Encouraging signs for live music’s rebirth

Every now and then, you find a music venue that has a certain special aura and is simply unlike any other you’ve been to before.  Sometimes it’s unique in its interior or location, sometimes it’s the warmth and generosity of the people running the place and other times it’s the programming of the events and the venue’s cultural or historical significance.

Jamboree in Limehouse was one of those.  It was the live music venue for the Cable Street Studios complex; an 88,000-square foot former sweet factory that was built by Batgers Confectionery in the 1860s.  Despite the site being worth a small fortune to potential developers, its owner was a keen believer in the power of the arts and culture and by 2011 it had become a thriving artistic community consisting of over 200 individual artists’ studios, a mosque and a transgender nightclub, happily co-existing side-by-side and the Jamboree venue.  

The old Jamboree venue, Limehouse, London.

Many of the artist studios also doubled up as residential dwellings; the workspace and the kitchenette area on the ground level and then a wooden mezzanine above housing the sleeping quarters.  My old school friend Charlie spent a couple of years there and it was always fascinating to go and see him and meet the various characters who also called the studios home.  

On one occasion Charlie organised for the Imam of Cable Street’s mosque to give a talk to the other residents about the customs of Islam and there would also be frequent ‘Open Studio’ days where the complex would open its doors to the public.  The artists would welcome you into their studios to view their latest work and there were also many performance art spectacles.  One performance that stands out in my mind was an artist dropping pieces of broken glass down a stone staircase on piece at a time.  Remarkably, he had worked out that each piece had a different pitch and the result was surprisingly musical. 

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) Cable Street Studios, Limehouse (photo: Ewan Munro). 2.) The old entrance to Jamboree (photo: Ewan Munro). 3.) My friends Roger and Hanna outside Jamboree, December 2013. 4.) Another view of the live room at Jamboree.

Charlie and I had become good mates around the age of 14 when we formed a four-piece guitar band called Felix Mandelson.  We covered The Vines and Red Hot Chili Peppers and our own songs were a perfect blend of naivety and well-meaning pretention.  “New Era” (written by moi and our rhythm guitarist Mike) paid homage to Che Guevara and contained the chorus line; “It’s the beginning of a new era for us // We’ve got to stop the pigs from exploiting what we’ve got”. On the other hand, one of Charlie’s songs “Enemies to the Peace” quoted verse from Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet.  Charlie has since gone on to be a successful actor on both stage and screen and the last time I caught up with him, he had been touring Europe in Dracula playing Jonathan Harker.  

Anyway, the evening I discovered Jamboree, I had taken the DLR over to Limehouse after work (I was living and working in Islington at the time) to catch up with Charlie over a couple of beers and we had decided to check out what was going on across the courtyard.  We lucked out that night as it turned out that Simo Lagnawi was performing – one of the main proponents of traditional Gnawa music in London.  Simo, originally of Amazigh (Berber) origin had spent several years travelling around Morocco studying Gnawa music, as well as Ahwash chanting before relocating to London.  He has since set up the London School of Gnawa in the city’s East End. 

Simo Lagnawi performing at Jamboree.

It was a captivating concert with Lagnawi being joined onstage by two other Moroccan musicians whilst accompanying himself on the guimbri, a three-stringed instrument made from stretched camel skin and goat gut.  The music was strangely hypnotic with complex polyrhythms and syncopated, repeating riffs and chants.  Everything was kept in time by one of the musicians frantically playing the qraqeb ­– iron castanet-like finger cymbals. There were only around 50 people present in Jamboree that evening but everyone was silent whilst the band was playing; fully absorbed in their music.

Simo Lagnawi performing at the V&A Museum, London in 2013 – around the time we also saw him play at Jamboree.

Jamboree was a unique venue too; a cross between a bohemian café and Tony Hornecker’s pop-up restaurant-cum-art installation The Pale Blue Door.  The stage and the venue’s windows were surrounded by velvet drapes, comfortable sofas and arm chairs were dotted around the room and there was art from some of Cable Street’s artists adorning every wall.  The venue took a chance on booking artists not usually looked at by more mainstream music venues too – Eastern European folk, calypso and zouk performances, Celtic roots music and gypsy jazz.  Charlie mentioned that Jonathan Richman of The Modern Lovers fame had even performed a secret acoustic gig there too.  

Unfortunately, in 2018 just shy of its tenth anniversary Jamboree was forced to close its doors after being served notice by Cable Street Studios’ new landlord Sudbury Properties.  After a temporary stay on Three Colt Street, also in Limehouse, it shut its doors at the beginning of 2020, potentially for good.

I was overjoyed, however, to receive an email last week announcing that Jamboree would be returning in 2021 with a new home in Kings Cross, North London.  Kings Cross – as recently as a decade ago, one of the last undeveloped parts of Central London and a quasi-red light district – is fast becoming the destination of choice for the creative industries.  As well as behemoth companies such as GoogleFacebook, communications group HavasPRS for Music and Universal Music now calling the area home, there are some much more interesting developments happening just beneath the surface.  

For example, the music start-up incubator community Tileyard is home to several emerging challengers in the music and tech space and the likes of Mark Ronson and Sir Antony Gormley even have studios there.  The Spiritland audiophile bar opened a few years ago on Stable Street and boasts that its huge, bespoke soundsystem is “the best in London” (I’ve been there a few times and it is pretty special – as are the huge speakers inside each individual bathroom cubicle).  The team behind Omeara in Flat Iron Square (led by Mumford & Sons musician Ben Lovett) opened the 600-capacity Lafayette venue in February 2020 and although its launch has been disrupted by the pandemic, it’s set to reopen later this year.  Although one night there will set you back around £200, the newly-opened Standard Hotel just off Euston Road and owned by the same group behind LA’s notorious den of iniquity the Chateau Marmont, contains its very own venue and has promised regular music events and “cultural happenings”

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) Tileyard, Kings Cross. 2.) Inside the newly-opened Lafayette. 3.) Inside The Standard hotel. 4.) The prized sound system at Spiritland, Stable Street.

These new venues join the already well-established bastions of live music in Kings Cross such as The Scala (where the iconic cover to Iggy & The Stooges’ Raw Power album was shot), the famous grassroots venue Water Rats, arts café Drink Shop Do and electronic music club The Egg.  The Guardian and The Observer newspapers have, of course also been based on York Way, Kings Cross since 2008 too. 

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) The Egg, York Way. 2.) The Water Rats, Grays Inn Road (photo: Adam Bruderer). 3.) The iconic sign outside The Scala (photo: Ian Muttoo). 4.) The front cover of Iggy & The Stooges’ ‘Raw Power’ (taken at The Scala) 5.) Drink Shop Do, Caledonian Road.

Whilst there’s no denying that 2020 has been the toughest year on record for the performing arts, there are also some encouraging signs outside of the Kings Cross bubble.  The Music Venue Trust confirmed at the beginning of February that 13 venues on its ‘danger list’ had already been saved from imminent closure.  Only last week, the creation of the first-ever trade body for the live music industry LIVE was announced to widespread support.  Many venues such as Band on The Wall in Manchester and The Wedgewood Rooms in Portsmouth have used this time to carry out essential repairs to their venues with The Wedge relaying the wooden floor in its main room.  

Repairs taking place at The Wedgewood Rooms, Portsmouth. October 2020.

Even closer to (my adopted) home in Bari in Puglia, there are some green shoots of recovery appearing too.  The 1920s Art Deco venue Kursaal Santa Lucia on the city’s Lungomare (‘seafront’ to you and I) is set to reopen in spring this year after a lengthy refurbishment and shows are already starting to be tentatively booked again in venues such as Teatro Petruzzelli and Teatro Kismet

The soon-to-be-reopened Kursaal Santa Lucia, Bari.

Hopefully the post-Covid age will see a Belle Époque-style resurgence for the live music sector and a surge in creative pursuits in general.  Watch this space.  

An ode to the London live music venues of yesteryear

The story of The Middle Earth; London’s radical first underground club 

Pre-Covid (will we refer to this time as ‘P.C.’ in years to come?), I lived for going to gigs and I’ve always found live music venues and their history fascinating.  My sister Rachel helped kick-start this obsession as a teenager when she bought me the book ‘Rock and Roll London’ by Max Wooldridge – containing a foreword by the provocative Sex Pistols and New York Dolls impresario Malcolm McLaren. 

I spent two weeks staying with her in Bermondsey, South London in 2002 and again in 2004 whilst doing work experience at NME magazine, then based in King’s Reach Tower, Waterloo.  At NME, the workies would be allowed to leave the office at 4.30pm but my sister wouldn’t finish work in Covent Garden until nearer 6pm so I’d use this hour and a half to wander around Central London with the ‘Rock and Roll London’ book in hand tracking down the city’s various musical landmarks.  

From the Sex Pistols’ notorious squat at 6 Denmark Street to Syd Barrett’s former pad on Earlham Street to the site of Trident Studios (where Bowie recorded ‘Ziggy Stardust’, amongst countless others) on St Anne’s Court in Soho, making a pilgrimage to these hallowed haunts was a fun way to pass the time and it helped me to become familiar with the more obscure streets of Soho, Fitzrovia, Mayfair and Covent Garden.  Ironically, these areas would be where I would spend much of my PR career ten years later. 

I secretly hoped that some of the musical magic of the city would rub off on me and I began spending increasing amounts of time on Denmark Street (London’s Tin Pan Alley) after finishing work at NME, trying out various guitars that I had no intention (or financial means, being only 15 at the time) of buying.  The assistants in shops like Andy’s GuitarsMacari’s and Wunjo, many of them aspiring musicians themselves, didn’t seem to mind though and were very accommodating; courteously getting down the vintage Fender Jaguar or rare Gibson Melody Maker that I’d asked to test out from the display wall.  One evening after work, I spotted Coldplay guitarist Jonny Buckland out shopping for guitars on Denmark Street.  Although personally not a huge fan, in 2002 they had just released their 10 x platinum album ‘A Rush Of Blood To The Head’ and were fast on their way to becoming the stadium band we all know today so I figured out that I was in the right place.

I was also fascinated by former punk clubs The Roxy on Neal Street, The Vortex on Wardour Street and Louise’s on Poland Street, as well as the early folk and skiffle venues Les Cousins on Greek Street and the 2i’s Coffee Bar on Old Compton Street.  On Wardour Street, I tracked down both the influential jazz, R&B and calypso club The Flamingo and the radical, unofficial HQ of the New Romantic movement The WAG Club, as well as the three incarnations of the world-famous Marquee Club on Oxford Street, Wardour Street and finally Charing Cross Road. 

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) Dave Vanian of The Damned onstage at The Roxy (photo: Derek Ridgers). 2.) The queue outside The Roxy on Neal Street. 3.) Siouxsie & The Banshees at The Vortex (photo: Ray Stevenson) 4.) The Sex Pistols outside their Denmark Street squat 5.) A flyer for The Vortex featuring The Buzzcocks, The Fall and John Cooper Clarke 6.) Malcom McLaren, Steve Jones, Glen Matlock, Marco Pirroni and pals get the drinks in at Louise’s, Poland Street.

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) Kids in mod attire outside The Flamingo on Wardour Street 2.) The entrance to The WAG Club 3.) Bill Kent at the 2i’s Coffee Bar, Old Compton Street 4.) The Marquee on Wardour Street, Soho in 1975 5.) and 6.) Donovan and a young Paul Simon perform at Les Cousins on Greek Street (photo: Ian Anderson).

Then there was The Middle Earth at 43 King Street in Covent Garden – London’s first ‘underground’ venue and prior to that, England’s first-ever boxing club, before closing its doors in 1936.  Housed in the large basement of the palatial 18th century Baroque mansion Russell House, the oldest remaining building in Covent Garden Piazza (built in 1717 for Admiral Russell, the First Earl of Orford), The Middle Earth for a short period in the mid-late 1960s was the most exciting hippie club in London. The direct successor to the UFO Club (“U-Fo”, to those in the know) on Tottenham Court Road, the club’s Saturday night house DJ was future Radio 1 broadcaster John Peel and it hosted shows by illuminati such as Syd Barrett-era Pink Floyd, David Bowie, The Electric Prunes, Ike & Tina Turner, Marc Bolan’s Tyrannosaurus Rex, Soft Machine, Tim Buckley, The Who, The Byrds (featuring Gram Parsons), Jefferson Airplane, Fairport Convention, Zoot Money and Captain Beefheart.  

A selection of line-up posters for The Middle Earth including The Doors at its later home of The Roundhouse in Camden Town.

During the day, the cellar that played host to The Middle Earth doubled up as a storage space used by the nearby fruit and vegetable market.  By evening, the stench of rotting fruit and veg, combined with the fumes from the club’s numerous incense burners was said to be somewhat intoxicating.  Bizarrely, the venue’s ‘bar’ sold mainly apples, rather than alcoholic drinks.  The club was famous for its floor-to-ceiling film projections, liquid slides and light shows, and hosted poetry and plays, as well as live music.  One notable production was by The Tribe of the Psychedelic Mushroom who performed a play based on The Tibetan Book of the Dead.  Far out, man. 

John Peel introducing Marc Bolan’s Tyrannosaurus Rex (a nascent version of T. Rex) onstage at The Middle Earth.  ‘Sarah Crazy Child’.  November 1967.

As with the UFO, The Middle Earth’s lifespan was a brief one.  Its doors usually opened at around 10pm with revellers finally emerging into the Covent Garden daylight around 8am and the police were highly suspicious of these bleary-eyed hippies who had been spending all night down in Russell House’s basement.  The psychedelic club was finally closed down in 1968 after a police drugs raid, during which a curious device known as ‘The Trip Machine’ was dismantled and then confiscated.  The team behind The Middle Earth went on to host events in a former Victorian railway turning shed, The Roundhouse in Camden Town.  Acts to perform at these events would include The Doors, playing their only non-festival UK shows and the first gig by Led Zeppelin in 1968.  

When I first visited 43 King Street in 2002, the building was still empty and in a semi-derelict state, but it has now been restored to its former glory and the upper ground floor has been taken over by the flagship store of high-end Brazilian shoe brand Melissa.  Its four-bedroom penthouse flat occupying the top two floors was recently listed for £7.75 million.  

The Roxy on Neal Street, once the stamping ground of The Clash, Siouxsie & The Banshees and renegade film-makers Don Letts and Julien Temple is now the flagship London branch of Speedo swimwear.  The Vortex at 203 Wardour Street is part of the Simmons Bar chain.  Louise’s is the site of bougie private members club and cocktail bar Milk & Honey.  The location of The Flamingo and in later years, The WAG Club is now home to Irish pub chain O’Neill’s (although its upstairs function room is called ‘The Flamingo Room’ in a nod to the building’s history).  Only the 2i’s Coffee Bar has stayed vaguely connected to its musical roots.  In 2021, it is the retro-themed Poppie’s Fish & Chips restaurant (I spent some time freelancing in an office opposite) but as you head down to its basement-level dining room, a bright neon sign declares; ‘The 2i’s Coffee Bar; Home to the Stars’.  

However, cities are constantly changing and evolving and different areas and movements will pick up the mantle when it comes to clubs, the arts and creative industries.  As Kierkegaard once noted;

“Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.”  

Soren Kierkegaard

We can take great inspiration from places like The Middle Earth and The WAG Club and the counterculture scenes they spawned but can only learn and build from them as we look towards future generations.

In my next post, I’ll be looking at why despite the huge economic hardship caused by the pandemic, it’s not all doom and gloom for London’s live music circuit.  

The WAG Club on Wardour Street became one of London’s coolest nightspots in the 1980s and was a fixture of the city’s alternative nightlife until finally closing its doors in 2001. The club was the brainchild of Chris Sullivan, a dandily-dressed Welshman and soul music obsessive and a genuine community formed around the club. In 2008 and 2009 my old band The Screenbeats played a couple of shows at Chris’ stylish new Cardiff venue Tabu. The most memorable gig was a Primal Scream aftershow party; we didn’t go onstage until 1am and playing to an audience including Bobby Gillespie, Andrew Innes, Barrie Cadogan and bizarrely Kermit from Black Grape was surreal to say the least.

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) The WAG Club community celebrating its 10th anniversary 2.) The WAG’s patrons included David Bowie, Naomi Campbell, Boy George, KRS-One and Neneh Cherry (pictured) 3.) and 4.) Photos of some of The WAG’s regulars 5.) – 7.) The club’s distinctive interior .

The ongoing search for the perfect ‘curry’

Curry

Noun: “A dish of meat, vegetables, etc., cooked in an Indian-style sauce of hot-tasting spices and typically served with rice.”

Verb: “To prepare or flavour (food) with a sauce of hot-tasting spices.”

(definition from Oxford Languages)

Origins: “Curry is an anglicised form of the Tamil word ‘kari’ meaning ‘sauce’ or ‘relish for rice’ that uses the leaves of the curry tree (Murraya koenigii).  The word kari is also used in other Dravidian languages, namely in Malayalam, Kannada and Kodava with the meaning of ‘vegetables (or meat) of any kind (raw or boiled), curry’”.

(A Dravidian Etymological Dictionary)
Chicken patiala at the Dakshin Bar & Grill, Mumbai. Contender for the perfect curry? I think so…

As with so many other things in modern popular culture, the word ‘curry’ is a bastardised English umbrella term.  One that was created to describe all manner of distinctly different types of cuisine from the Indian subcontinent.  Or to quote food historian Lizzie Collingham and the author of the definitive tome ‘Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors’“most likely an English bastardisation of a Portuguese bastardisation of the Tamil world ‘kari’ – which was used to describe spices or seasoning.”  So, there you go.

In Britain, ‘curry’ grew vastly in popularity during the Victorian era and Queen Victoria was said to be a great lover of spiced dishes.  In fact, she even employed two Indian chefs to prepare her curried lunches especially.  The ‘classic’ British buffet dish and sandwich-filler; Coronation Chicken stems from this royal association after it was created for Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation banquet in 1953.  It is thought that it was directly inspired by the Jubilee Chicken dish which was created for George V’s silver jubilee in 1935 and also contained cold cuts of chicken, curry powder and mayonnaise.  Creative cookery at its most innovative. 

The number of ‘curry houses’ or more upmarket ‘Indian restaurants‘ started to increase in the 1950s and 1960s before reaching a peak in the 1970s.  Part of the success of these new curry houses was down to the fact that they still served alcohol well into the early hours of the morning at a time when most pubs would stop serving at 11pm.  In 1983, there were over 3,500 Indian restaurants open in the UK and today Bangladeshis still run approximately 85-90 percent of these eateries.  

The famous ‘Curry Mile’ of Indian restaurants. Rusholme, Manchester.

However, the food in the majority of Indian restaurants has been anglicised and tailored for British palates and you would struggle to find a lot of the dishes on the menu in India.  For example, Chicken Tikka Masala is thought to have been invented in Britain and directly derived from the Northern Indian dish Butter Chicken, whilst the British Indian variation of Vindaloo is much spicier than the original which was a key component of Goan cuisine and was created especially for curry houses, with the addition of potatoes and chilli peppers.  The Balti on the other hand makes no secret of its humble origins, being introduced to menus in Birmingham in the early 1970s (although it may have been inspired by Northern Pakistani cuisine). 

I’m going to contradict myself now and will talk about ‘curry’ or ‘curries’ for the rest of this article.  I personally find that there is nothing more satisfying to cook than a curry.  From softening the onions and garlic and then adding the spices to form the base, to browning the meat or adding vegetarian substitutes such as chickpeas or lentils, to adding tomatoes or stock and gently simmering the stew, the whole process is incredibly therapeutic.

The food we eat is intrinsically tied up with memories too.  Whenever we would visit my paternal grandmother who was half-Indian and raised in Meghalaya, a curry or dhal would inevitably be on the stove and the fragrant smell would hit you as soon as you walked into the house.  My dad was delighted when I started cooking and bringing home curries in Food Technology classes at school and we discovered that cardamom pods were a fine addition to a Chicken Madras – although there is some dispute about whether the dish actually originated in Madras (now Chennai) or once again, in the British curry houses of the 1960s.  My dad had rarely eaten cardamom pods as a youngster because it turned out that Grandma didn’t like them!  Although initially wary of hot food, my mum also became partial to milder curries after meeting my dad and she would often make tasty meals for us like the sweet and sour Hawaiian Chicken on a Friday or Saturday night – learning many of the recipes from her Indian mother-in-law. 

I remember experiencing a proper high-end Indian restaurant for the first time whilst studying in Cardiff too.  My sister Rachel and brother-in-law Stuart had visited me for the weekend in March 2006 and after a day of sinking pints and watching the Six Nations rugby in various pubs on the side roads off St Mary’s Street, they treated me to a slap-up meal at the city’s Spice Quarter, located on the site of the former Brain’s Brewery.  The uber-attentive service and having the table tended to by three or four waiters at any one time gave me an idea of what to expect when I eventually visited India some 13 years later.

Talking of university, there was also the much-loved but at times slightly questionable Kismet.  Located on the rough and ready Cardiff thoroughfare City Road, Kismet became the venue of choice for various friends’ birthday celebrations each year.  Unbelievably cheap even for a student’s budget, a main course would set you back in the region of £3.50, plus a pound for a naan or rice.  Once my friend Emily and I ordered a bottle of red wine to share and two arrived on our table.  We apologised and sent one back, only to be told that it was buy one, get one free on bottles of wine that evening.  Of course.  At £5 per bottle, we were not complaining.  Kismet also specialised in takeaway ‘doggy bags’ as their portions were rather on the large side.  I can still visualise my old housemate Rhys running into the restaurant’s kitchen after a poor waiter, convinced that he was about to throw his leftover food away and not into the prerequisite doggy bag.  How the bars or clubs we went to afterwards felt about having to contend with a cloakroom full of takeaway curry bags remains uncertain.  Kismet has since closed and is no longer a fixture of student life in Cardiff. 

The much-missed Kismet restaurant. City Road, Cardiff.

During the London years, going ‘for a curry’ became a regular part of post-work socialising.  I was once chuffed to find myself dining next to former Yardbirds guitarist and ‘Hi Ho Silver Lining’ singer Jeff Beck at the famous Gaylord Restaurant on Mortimer Street.  The restaurant opened its doors in 1966, was a one-time favourite of The Beatles and even in 2015 it was old-school in every detail – the food and service was excellent though.  Sadly Gaylord shut its doors in 2019 after 53 years of serving “upscale Mughlai cuisine” originating from North India.  

The former Gaylord Restaurant, Fitzrovia, London. A one-time favourite of The Beatles (and Jeff Beck).

Other notable London curry houses included the huge, raucous and noisy Pakistani eatery Tayyabs in Whitechapel; a place that was as much renowned for its beer as its food (you could order it by the crate if you were celebrating) and the quaint, charming Agra Restaurant on Whitfield Street in Fitzrovia.  Opened in 1954, the place is like stepping back in time and is still run by members of the same family today.  The Indian Veg (or Indian Veg Bhelpoori House in full) on Chapel Market in Islington specialised in no-frills, yet tasty all-you-can-eat vegetarian fare for £6.50 – its walls covered with pro-vegetarianism slogans and propaganda posters.  Its proximity to The Lexington venue made it an ideal pre-gig fuelling station of choice. 

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) The queue for Tayyabs in Whitechapel. 2.) The Agra Restaurant on Whitfield Street, London. 3.) The one-in-a-kind Indian Veg, Islington, London. 4.) The Indian Veg’s propaganda-laden interior.

Then there were the two restaurants that also offered rooms for the night as well; the Indian YMCA on Fitzroy Square (I worked around the corner from here for a couple of years so it became a favourite spot for lunch) and The India Club on The Strand.  Both are long-standing London institutions serving hearty and wallet-friendly Indian food.  Situated up an unassuming staircase at 143 Strand, the latter was launched in 1951 by The Indo League with the aim of “furthering Indo-British friendship in the post-independence era” and as with the Agra Restaurant, it is like stepping into a time capsule.  Given its history, I have often found myself wondering if my grandparents would have visited The India Club in the 1950s.  Let’s hope that all of these well-loved London institutions can survive the current hospitality industry crisis caused by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Clockwise (from top left); 1.) The bar at The India Club, 143 Strand, London. 2.) The India Club’s dining room – practically unchanged since 1951. 3.) The canteen at The Indian YMCA, Fitzroy Square, Central London.

On my trip to India at the end of 2019, it would be an understatement to say that I ate well.  However, I often didn’t eat at fancy places, instead preferring local recommendations or low-key, hidden-away gems.  The food I ate with my relatives in Shillong was delicious and included regional specialities such as Doh khleh (a sort-of salad made with parts of the pig’s head) and Doh sniang nei iong – pork cooked with sesame.  However, the food in Meghalaya was actually milder and not as spicy as in the rest of India.  In Kerala in the south, a lot of the dishes were lighter and more fragrant, perhaps as a result of using coconut oil rather than ghee, whereas in Goa fish and more Portuguese-influenced fare reigned supreme.  Mumbai and Pune were culinary melting pots, as with any other metropolis, whilst in Chennai there were numerous options when it came to street food, as well as fiery appetisers like the city’s signature Chicken 65 (invented by the Head Chef at the Buhari Hotel and allegedly containing 65 chillis per kilogramme of chicken).

Just a snapshot of some of the dishes I had the privilege of trying during my visit to India.

However, the distinction of being the tastiest dish I sampled was reserved for the Dakshin Bar & Kitchen; a simple Punjabi restaurant off a busy main road in the Fort district of Mumbai that had the Indian Super League playing on big screens on the wall.  I ordered Chicken Patiala one evening without thinking too much about it and it was one of the best things I ate during my time in India.  It was unusual too; a thin egg omelette prepared and then cooked in the highly-spiced rich, creamy chicken curry.  All washed down with an ice-cold Kingfisher, of course.  

Over these past 18 months both in India and now in Italy, some of my favourite discoveries have been places that I’ve stumbled upon by chance or that have been a word-of-mouth recommendation from a local.  The delicious Chicken Patiala at Dakshin was no exception.

To find out how to make the dish, check out the short video below courtesy of Chef Smita at Get Curried.  In my next post, I’ll be sharing a recipe of my own!