A Word About Playlists

Ever since my elder sister made an eight-track mix tape for me aged 4 (the featured artists included Bon Jovi, Extreme and Inner Circle), I have collected records.  As a kid, I religiously accumulated every Now That’s What I Call Music! compilation on cassette (Now 30 – Now 44 was the particular period in question) and then at age 12 I graduated to proper albums and received The Miseducation of Lauryn HillThis Is My Truth Tell Me Yours by the Manic Street Preachers and um, Performance & Cocktails by Stereophonics (it was arguably the last decent album they made, in my defence) for my birthday.

As a teenager, I used the pocket money earned from my part-time job as an after-school cleaner (my school couldn’t find ready and willing adult cleaners so they employed us students instead) to bolster my collection of CDs (I had several hundred by the time I went off to university) and around 16, I began to take an interest in vinyl; initially collecting 7” singles and then graduating to full-length albums.  I also took an interest in my Dad’s collection and would pilfer the occasional Beatles or Beach Boys album, not to mention a great blues and soul compilation featuring the likes of John Lee Hooker.  

A snapshot of just some of my favourite albums throughout the years.

For years, I listened to music through an early 1990s hi-fi system that was very generously given to me by an uncle who worked for electronics company Phillips.  He had upgraded his home system and with my interest in music had let me have his previous set-up (which would have been top of the range when it was manufactured).  It was far too loud for my teenage bedroom and the volume annoyed my parents no end, but the fact it came with its own turntable, as well as graphic equaliser and CD and cassette decks was a major coup.  It moved with me to London and took pride of place in the living room of my tiny flat on Stockwell Road and provided the soundtrack to many a late-night gathering.

After 17 years of continuous heavy use, the system finally stopped working in 2018 after my move to Brixton Hill and I decided it was time to treat myself to a new system.  After nearly a year of reading audiophile magazines and gear reviews, I took the plunge early in 2019 and made a visit to Oranges & Lemons on Webbs Road in Clapham, South London, leaving with a Rega Elex-R amplifier and a Rega P3 turntable (Monitor 500 speakers, a Marantz CD deck and a vintage Nakamichi tape player were also added soon after, if you’re interested).  

The new set-up taking pride of place in the living – either side of the fireplace.

The new set-up was the single most expensive outright purchase I have ever made (surpassing even guitars) and a present to myself to celebrate the first year of being successfully self-employed.  However, it soon proved to be an excellent investment.  Not only are the Rega units built like tanks, but I began to listen to records in an entirely new way, hearing details and nuances in the recordings that wouldn’t have been picked up before.  On nights in, instead of turning the TV on after work, I would listen to albums instead. 

As well as being so far away from family and friends, leaving my record collection behind in boxes was perhaps the second hardest thing about moving to Bari.  I still buy the occasional vinyl in Italy and there are some excellent record shops in Bari, namely electronic specialist EXPNew Records for indie / new wave / alternative Italian, and the San Pasquale second-hand emporium Wanted Records. However, it’s frustrating not being able to listen to the new purchases (my current Bari set-up is a laptop or iPhone connected to a Bose Soundlink Bluetooth speaker – it’s not quite the same). 

Records upon records, and particular bounties from Soho’s Sounds of The Universe, Sister Ray and Brixton’s Supertone Records.

During the second wave of Italian Covid restrictions in late-2020 / early 2021, I did rediscover the joys of streaming though and began obsessively curating a series of Spotify playlists based on genre and overall vibe.  What started off as a way to pass the time during lockdown soon became a labour of love and many of these have been painstakingly created (in particular, ‘Non-obvious soul’ and Eyeliner and Spraypaint FM’); not just in terms of the chosen tracks but also the running order (don’t play these on shuffle mode).  

With a 2,000-km drive ahead of me later this week, some of these playlists will be on heavy rotation, along with a number of podcasts.  Here’s a summary of some of the most interesting compilations I’ve put together and what you can expect.  I hope you find something to your taste; sit back and give your ears a treat…

Non-obvious soul

I’ve been a great lover of soul music since I was a teenager and this playlist focuses on the less obvious cuts.  Sure, there are some famous names in there but the song choices are a little more under-the-radar.  Starting off with some instrumentals from Young-Holt Unlimited and the Menahan Street Band, this collection takes you on a journey through early Northern Soul footstompers, gospel, Motown, Stax, ‘60s girl groups, disco, slick 1980s pop and then the titans of ‘90s soul such as Jil Scott and Lauryn Hill.  It ends with some more contemporary artists such as Children of Zeus, Lost Horizons and Solange.

Listen to these‘Me and Mrs Jones’ – Billy Paul, ‘Center City’ – Fat Larry’s Band, ‘No Easy Way Down’ – Dusty Springfield.

Eyeliner and Spraypaint FM

Inspired by the Manic Street Preachers, Simon Price’s Stay Beautiful clubnight and a number of other provocative, sleazy, ‘eyeliner-friendly’ bands, this is the indie disco but with an edge.  The New York Dolls, T-Rex, The Stooges and of course, the Manics all make an appearance but there are also nods to some often-forgotten noughties groups such as King Adora, Kinesis, Miss Black America and My Vitriol.  Watch out for the disco and ‘80s pop interlude midway through. 

Listen to these‘Personality Crisis’ – New York Dolls, ‘Don’t Speak My Mind’ – Miss Black America, ‘Always On My Mind’ – Pet Shop Boys. 

Summer bliss

I started compiling this playlist during what seemed like the endless Italian summer of 2020 – and the brief easing of the Covid restrictions.  The soundtrack to many a summer’s evening, there’s a lot of disco, house and upbeat funk tracks, as well as some Italian oddities like ‘L’eroe di Plastica’ by Napolitano percussionist Tony Esposito.  Put this one on as the soundtrack to a summer evening’s barbeque. 

Listen to these: ‘Sempre’ – Marcos Valle, ‘Attack’ – Walter Ego, ‘Say Something’ – Emma Jean-Thackray.

Hip-hop; an education 

Hip-hop is not a genre I can claim to having an encyclopaedic knowledge of.  I appreciate its artistry and the impact it’s had on modern culture but it’s probably the genre I have the least records of in my collection.  However, reading XL Recordings founder Richard Russell’s book ‘Liberation Through Hearing’ and the BBC’s documentary series ‘Hip hop: The song’s that shook America’, opened a new world to me and I started to listen to a lot of hip hop from the 1980s and early ‘90s.  This playlist attempts to provide a chronological musical history of the genre over five hours, starting with The Fatback Band’s ‘King Tim III’ (mooted by many as the first-ever hip hop track) and finishing with a crop of current artists including Berwyn, Madlib and Slum Village.

Listen to these‘P.S.K’ – Schooly D, ‘Unity’ – Queen Latifah, ‘Brixton Baby’ – Ty featuring Mpho.

The Italian Songbook

This playlist was created, mainly with the goal of helping to improve my Italian.  It features a collection of classic Italian songs, alternative recommendations from Italian friends and some tracks I’ve found through my own research.  Italian music icons such as Lucio Battisti, Fabrizo De Andre and Domenico Modugno are included but also young upstarts such as Venerus and Takagi & Ketra.

Listen to these: ‘Il Mio Canto Libero’ – Lucio Battisti, ‘Senza Luce (A Whiter Shade of Pale)’ – Dik Dik, ‘Da Sola / In the Night’ – Takagi & Ketra.

Reggae, dub and rocksteady 

After nearly ten years of living in Brixton, it’s hard for reggae music not to rub off on you in some way.  I’ve always had soft spot for the genre but exploring the area’s specialist record shops became a favourite weekend activity of mine – in particular Supertone Records on Acre Lane and Lion Vibes in Brixton Village.  This playlist has developed and been added to over a couple of years and takes in classic reggae, earlier rocksteady, as well as some heavier dub moments.  There’s an ace Discogs article on Brixton’s Supertone Records here.

Listen to these: Born for a Purpose’ – Dr. Alimantado, ‘Gimme Gimme Your Love’ – Don Carlos, ‘Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner’ – Black Uhuru.

Off-kilter folk(isms)

A playlist of wistful alternative folk, alt-country, Americana and psychedelia.  Expect Crosby, Stills & Nash, Fairport Convention, Love, The Flying Burrito Brothers and some more tender moments from Shirley Collins and Jackie Leven.

Listen to these: ‘Whispering Pines’ – The Band, ‘Will To Love’ – Neil Young, ‘Hares On The Mountain’ – Shirley Collins & Davy Graham. 

Early rock & roll

Partly inspired by my trips to Tennessee over the past few years, this playlist showcases a selection of the earliest rock & roll from the late mid-1950s until the early-60s.  Bo Diddley, Billy Hawks, Carl Perkins, Gene Vincent and Link Wray all feature, as well as some of the more raucous blues tracks of the era.

Listen to these‘Fujiyama Mama’ – Wanda Jackson, ‘Have Love Will Travel’ – Richard Berry, ‘Get Down With It’ – Little Richard. 

Uplifting Melancholia

A collection of beautiful-sounding tracks that somehow make the listener feel happy and sad simultaneously.  I spent a lot of last year’s road trip to Sicily listening to this playlist.  Contains not one but two versions of ‘Strange Overtones’; David Byrne and Brian Eno’s original and an Americana-style cover by Chicago group Whitney.

Listen to these: ‘Love and Death’ – Ebo Taylor, ‘Do You Wanna Dance?’ – The Mamas and The Papas, Til I Die’ – The Beach Boys (alternate mix). 

Spiritual // gospel // joy 

Finally, this one is still a work-in-progress but focuses on music which is vaguely spiritual or uplifting; be it gospel or purely existential in its nature.  Features the 1971 gospel-disco epic ‘Like A Ship’ and the Beach Boys’ hymn ‘Our Prayer’

Listen to these: ‘Keep Your Faith To The Sky’ – Willie Scott & The Birmingham Spirituals, ‘Spiritual Eternal’ – Alice Coltrane, ‘Like A Ship’ – Pastor T.L. Barrett & The Youth for Christ Choir. 

Ricotta forte; the strongest cheese on earth?

One of the joys of living in Italy – even during the periods of lockdown – has been discovering local ingredients that are specific to particular regions.  Edible weeds such as cicoriacima di rapa and puntarelle in Puglia and the Salento; ‘ndujasoppressata and Tropea onions in Calabria and the crispy red peperoni cruschi of the Basilicata region, to name just a few.

A few weeks ago, I popped my head into my local casa vinicola, Vecchio Feudo on Corso Sidney Sonnino in Bari to pick up some essentials (well, olives, taralli and white wine), when a product I hadn’t seen before caught my eye as I was paying at the counter.  A small glass jar in the chiller filled with a white paste was labelled ‘Ricotta forte’ (‘strong ricotta’).  My interest was piqued and at €2.50 it was cheap enough to take a punt on. 

A typical jar of Pugliese ricotta forte and Vecchio Feudo on Corso Sidney Sonnino in Madonnella, Bari.

I took the jar back to my flat, unscrewed the lid and a smell unlike anything else I can remember immediately hit me.  It was pungent to say the least and made gorgonzola seem like Dairylea in comparison.  I tentatively scraped a tiny amount onto a cracker and the sheer strength and bitterness of this spreadable cheese took the roof off my mouth.  What on earth had I bought? 

After some research, I found out that ricotta forte is a Pugliese speciality which is also popular in the neighbouring region of Basilicata.  Its origins date back nearly one thousand years to when local shepherds would create their own unique version of the soft cheese ricotta (used in a variety of Italian sweet and savoury dishes) by placing it into wooden, glass or ceramic containers, adding salt and then storing in a dark, damp place to encourage the growth of mould.  Traditionally covered with fig leaves, the cheese would be opened and stirred every week but overall, the fermentation process would take around three months.  The fungus that grew gave the cheese its distinctive spicy flavour and one of the reasons the shepherds preferred this potent variety of ricotta was the fact it would keep for so long (it is said that ricotta forte never really ‘goes off’). 

Ricotta forte being produced in the traditional way and served on crostini with anchovies.

The cheese soon became a local speciality and Pugliese families would often make it at home, placing the jars under the kitchen sink or in cool cantine (cellars) to ferment.  It is often eaten served on crackers or crostini with anchovies or tomatoes or with sweeter ingredients such as grapes or drizzled honey.  Even though I’m a big fan of strong blue cheeses, spreading ricotta forte on crostini is not for the faint-hearted.  I actually found that stirring a teaspoon (yes, a teaspoon is all you need) into a pasta dish or a tomato sauce works better and adds a spiciness and piquant flavour.  I also used a little in a mousse and served this with roasted fennel – the recipe courtesy of A Taste For Travel can be found here.

A Taste for Travel’s recipe for Fennel au gratin with ricotta forte mousse.

Ricotta forte has been recognised by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies as a typical food of Puglia and Basilicata and has been awarded PAT (prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale) status.  Incredibly, the Campania region alone has 515 of these.  The Slow Food organisation has also sung the cheese’s praises and in particular its time-honoured production method and long shelf life.  In line with the current craze for fermented food such as kimchi and sauerkraut, ricotta forte is also said to have numerous health properties including aiding digestion, boosting gut bacteria and even killing off worms.  Good to know.

One jar of ricotta forte is likely to last you the best part of a year (you could even consider it an investment, of sorts) and it really does have a taste unlike any other cheese.  You could do worse than picking up a jar of the stuff when you next visit Italy or a well-stocked Italian deli in the UK. You never know, it migheven come in handy if you are planning on organising a stag do or a sports team initiation ritual in the near future too.

You can find a video showing the traditional production process of ricotta forte courtesy of Maria Rosa Pinto below:

There is also an English-speaking ricotta forte taste test here.

All Roads Lead to Rome

Seven days ago, I was back home in Bari feeling a little gutted that I had to teach a two-hour class at the same time as the England v Germany Euro 2020 match.  11 years earlier at Glastonbury 2010, I had even made the difficult decision to miss legendary Kinks frontman Ray Davies’ set on the Pyramid Stage in favour of watching the match on the big screens near the Dance Village instead.  England got thumped 4-1, so in hindsight it was perhaps, the wrong call.  

England v Germany is always a big deal.  The match last Tuesday at Wembley was made even more significant by the fact it was a repeat of the semi-final at Euro ’96, where England were knocked out of the tournament with our then-central defender and now-manager Gareth Southgate having his decisive kick saved by Andreas Köpke in the penalty shoot-out.  

Highlights of the famous England v Germany Euro 96 clash at Wembley. 26th June 1996.

The ’96 match was on the same day as my elder sister’s graduation from Durham University so she and my parents watched it there, whilst my half-Khasi grandmother travelled from Eastbourne to look after me in Market Bosworth, where we were living at the time.  I actually missed the first half because I had to go to Scouts (there is a pattern emerging here), but was then glued to the TV for the second half, extra time (including the agonising near misses by Gazza and Darren Anderton) and then the ensuing dramatic penalty shootout.  Despite being only nine years old, the game finishing at nearly 11pm and having school the next day, I vividly remember my grandma (a former nurse) encouraging me to “listen to some music” to calm me down so I would be able to go to sleep.  I think I finally drifted off to sleep sometime after midnight. 

Back to the 2021 rematch.  I managed to watch the pre-match build-up on the BBC but then had to make the 15-minute journey into school, just as the game was kicking off.  I switched my phone to airplane mode and didn’t look at any texts from friends and family for a few hours.  On my walk home I actively avoided going past certain bars or pizzerias that might be showing the game and wore headphones to drown out any noise.  At 9pm I was finally able to re-watch the match on my laptop but unfortunately, despite trying to avert my eyes, the 2-0 scoreline was revealed to me as the on-demand footage was buffering.  It did perhaps make for a slightly less stressful England-watching experience though…

Never did I think for a moment that I’d be at the quarter final against Ukraine at the Stadio Olimpico in Rome a few days later as part of the travelling ‘Expat Army’.  As soon as England had beaten Germany last Tuesday, I started getting WhatsApp messages from people asking if I was considering getting tickets for the game.  With Covid restrictions still requiring Brits to quarantine for five days upon entry to Italy; the only people who could go were England fans living in mainland Europe (or even further afield than that). 

A near-empty Stadio Olimpico upon our designated arrival time of 6.30pm. 3rd July 2021.

British media began (incorrectly) reporting on Tuesday night that the British Embassy in Rome would be issuing tickets to expats.  However, after making a number of calls on Wednesday morning to the UK Consulate in Rome, it became clear that this was false and that UEFA would be selling the tickets after all – but only to people who could prove they were permanently living outside of Regno Unito.  A British lady of Italian descent was selling a ticket through social media for €150 on behalf of her cousin who could no longer go; she seemed legitimate enough but was making a sizeable mark-up on the ticket and I took the risk and decided to wait until some became available on the official channels.

Finally, on Wednesday evening, UEFA made tickets available through its online portal.  They weren’t cheap and initially my instinct was that I couldn’t afford it (in Puglia I earn significantly less than I did in London), however several friends in the UK urged me to reconsider.  To quote my good mate from school Matt Turner; “It’s a once in a lifetime opportunity!”.  I snapped up the tickets, hastily began making travel plans to get to Rome the next morning and soon the Expats in Italy community was buzzing with people who would be making the very same pilgrimage.

I’d originally planned to take my time with Rome. I wanted to spend a full week (or even longer) in the city when the weather got a bit cooler in September or October.  The idea was to get the tourist sights out of the way nice and early and then live like a local and really get to know some of the less obvious parts of the city. Instead; the weekend just gone has been a fun-yet-hectic, whistle-stop visit, dominated by the football on both Friday and Saturday nights.  I arrived on Thursday evening and didn’t really stop until the high-speed train back to Bari Centrale left Roma Termini station early on Sunday evening.  

I walked a daily 30,000 steps on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and on the first day tried, and succeeded in covering off The Vatican City and St Peter’s BasilicaPiazza del PopoloThe Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, the Altare della Patria monument, the Trevi FountainCampo de’ FioriCastel Sant’Angelo, the Roman Forum and the Colosseum.  The average temperature in Rome over the weekend was 30˚ and it’s accurate to say that by the time I met up with people for a drink that evening, I was suitably parched. The cold beers went down very well. 

A snapshot of my day exploring historic Rome.

The fact that the Pantheon – a Roman temple built by Hadrian circa AD 113 – has been in continual use ever since then particularly blew my mind.  Let’s be honest though, even with the Covid restrictions in place, much of Rome’s Centro Storico is a honeypot for tourists.  Food and drink there costs three times what it does in Bari and the crowded area around the Trevi Fountain, whilst beautiful, reminded me of a Baroque Leicester Square.  I sought out some respite in the nearby Galleria d’Arte Moderna – a tranquil gallery that was hosting the ‘Ciao Maschio!’ exhibition about toxic masculinity and political tyrants, as well as permanent works by Willem de Kooning (the Manics wrote the Everything Must Go track ‘Interiors’ about him), Carlo Levi and even London’s Gilbert & George.  Entry was just €7 – highly recommended if you want a break from the crowds.

Some of the delights of the Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma.

It was the Italy v Belgium quarter final on Friday night and a small group of us watched it on a screen outside a restaurant just off Campo de’ Fiori, chowing down on cacio e pepe, cold cuts and burrata and knocking back a few Birra Messina.  The final few minutes were tense but as the game finished 2-1 to Italy, the streets around the Centro Storico erupted and very soon they were teeming with local revellers celebrating the fact Italy had made it through to the semi-final.  We stationed ourselves outside a small bar just off the Piazza Navona and there was a carnival-like atmosphere around the packed small lanes with plenty of chanting and the odd flare being let off.  It was a lot of fun and the crowd continued to grow as the night went on.  We called it a night around 3.30am and it was probably the right decision with the England game the next day – the locals continued festivities long after that though.  

The scenes around Piazza Navona after Italy’s win against Belgium on Friday night.

Saturday was a slightly more chilled affair and after the typical Italian sweet breakfast of a pastry and coffee, I explored the Trastevere neighbourhood a little down the River Tiber.  It’s an area famous for its rustic and bohemian vibe, although there are now a lot of upmarket boutiques and eateries.  After an extremely rich polpettina di cicoria con pecorino and carbonara lunch, I climbed Il Gianicolo – the second tallest of Rome’s seven hills, with a small terrace area at the top offering fine views of the city.  I then made my way downhill to the Orto di Botanico di Roma – Rome’s botanical garden, opened in 1883 and operated by the Sapienza University of Rome.  It featured over 3,000 different species of plants and a Japanese, Mediterranean and medicinal garden –  not to mention two greenhouses full of giant cacti.  It was a peaceful, almost otherworldly place to relax ahead of the excitement that was awaiting us at Stadio Olimpico just a few hours later. 

Heading downstream to Trastevere and the Orto di Botanico.

Due to Covid-restrictions, everyone attending the England v Ukraine match was given a designated entry time with their ticket and mine happened to be 6.30pm – very early considering the kick-off wasn’t until 9pm.  We were treated to an awkward set by the tournament DJ (Euro-trance was his speciality) and some football jugglers but at least they showed the highlights of the Czech Republic v Denmark game on the big screens.  I’m not sure the stadium was quite prepared for how thirsty the England fans would be and very soon the bars had huge queues by them and the poor guys whose job it is to wander around the stadium selling drinks and snacks would be accosted as soon as they came back to the stand and would sell out again and have to refill pretty much instantly.  Soon the choruses of ‘Three Lions’ began to ring out across the England section of the stadium, whilst the opposite end gradually filled up with the yellow shirts of the Ukrainian fans.

There was a great atmosphere in the stadium as it got busier and we met people who had travelled to Rome from across mainland Europe, and even one lad originally from near Middlesbrough who’d made it over from Dubai in time. There was a group of Anglo-German healthcare workers who had decided to fly over from Frankfurt that day and were returning the same night and my English mate Jamie was also flying back to Vienna at 4am, straight after the match.  Whilst the newspapers made much of the “ragtag band of teachers, lawyers and waiters” (to quote a headline in The Sunday Times) who would be cheering England on in Rome, the mood became increasingly raucous and noisy, particularly after the three goals in the second half went in. 

Inside Rome’s Stadio Olimpico on Saturday night, including shots of the players celebrating Harry Maguire’s headed goal and Harry Kane leading the applause to the England fans.

Enough has already been written about the finer details of the England v Ukraine game itself, the team’s slow-build performance in the tournament so far and the possibility of the team reaching their first major final in 55 years.  However, in summary, the first half performance was efficient but not thrilling – Harry Kane’s early goal after four minutes settling some initial nerves.  Ukraine had a few half-chances towards the end of the half but we were never really in danger of conceding.  

The team turned up the heat in the second half though and Harry Maguire’s header was a real thunderbolt; we had a great view of it as we were sat right above where Luke Shaw’s assisting free-kick was taken from.  It was great to see Jadon Sancho getting his first start of the Euros on the right and Jordan Henderson’s first-ever England goal for number four too.  Kane led the players on a lap of honour at the end of the game and even the unused substitutes like the plucky Phil Foden and Jack Grealish joined him in their tracksuits too.  Foden’s newly-bleached peroxide barnet making him unmistakeable – even from the stadium’s furthest seats.  Ukraine didn’t provide the most challenging of opposition so perhaps it makes sense to keep the flair players in peak condition for the next match against Denmark.

Another rendition of ‘Three Lions’ at Stadio Olimpico on Saturday night.

Stadio Olimpico is a quite long way from the centre of Rome and post-match the 2,500 travelling England fans dispersed in several different directions very quickly.  However, we still had a few beers after the game but it was nothing compared to the celebrations after the Italy win the night before and the scenes in the alleys around Piazza Navona and Campo de’ Fiori.  

Sunday was spent exploring the Villa Borghese park just above the Piazza del Popolo, a quick walk around the Pantheon area again and then lunch at a great restaurant I had found on Thursday evening in the Prati district called 3 Quarti.  Reasonably-priced, off the tourist trail and busy with mainly locals, I would highly recommend it to anyone who is visiting Rome (they also have another restaurant in Roma Nord).  Thursday’s dish of choice was the classic Roman dish Maccheronici alla gricia and spicy sautéed cicoria as a side and lunch on Sunday was courgette flower stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies and cacio e tre pepe (three peppers – black, white and pink). 

The boating lake at Villa Borghese and the delicious fare at 3 Quarti on Via Attilio Regolo in the Prati district of Rome.

So, my first trip to Rome didn’t turn out exactly how I imagined it would be.  I walked on average 11 miles per day, drank quite a lot of beer and tried to cram as much into a three-night stay as physically possible – and that’s without starting on the football. It was great fun though, a real adrenaline rush getting the tickets so close to the match and good to also catch-up with some familiar faces.

I’ll be back in Rome before not too long but next time, will look forward to spending some time in the more under-the-radar neighbourhoods of Ostiense (a formerly industrial district now full of bars, galleries, museums and street art), Parioli (a leafy, well-heeled suburb of Northern Rome) and San Lorenzo (the buzzy student area where bottles of Peroni apparently still cost €1).  Another image of Rome that is embedded in my mind as much as the ancient architecture and numerous Baroque church spires is that of the distinctive stone pines (also, known as the Parasol or Umbrella pine).  They are everywhere – even in the city centre and are very much an iconic emblem of the city.  Until next time.  A dopo Roma.

Rome’s distinctive stone pines.

The sunset over the River Tiber near Prati on Thursday evening.